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Mozambique: Fine Steak, Smooth Wine, Unique Flavors

Agriculturists, especially the artisanal ones, are always striving to come up with a new crossbreed of mushroom, or whatever else their interest of the moment might be in the garden.

Now someone in South Africa has introduced a small sector of the culinary world to something called the peppadrop. It arose from a cherry tomato plant managing to crossbreed with a small spicy pepper plant. The result looks like a miniature red bell pepper with just the right amount of zestiness and pepper flavor but with a distinctly tomato background as it disintegrates in the mouth.

How do you taste this lovely new flavor here in Orange County?

Simply pop into Mozambique Steak and Coastal Lounge in Laguna Beach. Typical of this restaurant bringing us very interesting dining, this is only a part of what’s going on with the menu these days. Now, in addition to the customer friendly tastes of Southern African food, several steaks have been added to the menu.

When it opened just two years ago, Mozambique was an immediate asset on the OC culinary stage because we’d never even imagined what Southern African food encompassed. Then, when we tasted it, what a likeable cuisine it turned out to be.






Mozambique main dinning room: upstairs is more casual lounge

Nothing jarring, nothing far out exotic; it was just a different way of presenting palate-pleasing flavors.

I’ve never wavered in my support for and appreciation of this restaurant and if you happen to be one of those lone folks who have not yet discovered it, then my opinion is that you are missing something very interesting indeed.

A few of us recently dined at the restaurant to try some of the new items and see how ingredients like the peppadrop, pomegranate molasses and some of their signature spice mixes were worked into the recipes. Included with me in the good conversation and good eating of the evening,along with nice wine,was Business Journal publisher Richard Reisman, Elaine Cali of the Anaheim-OC Visitor and Convention Bureau and Dennis Morin, founder of software maker Wonderware and builder and resident of Laguna’s now famous “Rock House.” You can imagine the eclectic conversation for those few hours.

Mozambique has a real feather in its cap by way of chef Alfonso Contrisciani. He’s one of only 72 certified master chefs in America, a designation that comes after a complicated and difficult culinary training program and then finalized after a stringent series of tests to prove the high level of mental and physical capacity and culinary knowledge.

He’s not from Southern Africa but an East Coast guy, who, as part of his culinary curiosity, got involved in the cooking of Mozambique and teamed up with the two founders of this concept who are from South Africa and used to vacation with their families in Mozambique, Ivan Spiers and managing partner Tony Shill.

A first course attention getter is the plate of big prawns, split and grilled over artisan charcoal that has no objectionable shortcomings for our health. They are speckled with peri-peri sauce,an attractive mix of spices, roasted tomato, feisty little peppers, garlic and herbs,and served with a fresh mango salsa.

I also like the vegetables grilled over an open fire and layered with fresh mozzarella, spinach and pomegranate molasses (another new culinary discovery that is really delicious in this case and even brushed on roasted chicken and vegetables at home, or try using it in your vinaigrette salad dressing).

The chef stuffs those little peppadrops with goat cheese and peppery seasonings and uses them in the must-have Mediterranean Peppadrop Salad. Additional ingredients in the salad include romaine, artichoke hearts, kalamata olives, grape tomatoes, feta cheese and a Grecianesque dressing. Have it topped with grilled chicken or shrimp for a light meal.

Yet another happy encounter is the chilled Peri-Peri Gazpacho. It’s a traditional Spanish garden vegetable soup served chilled with avocado cr & #269;me fra & #238;che, and it’s outstanding. This too can be glorified if you want with fresh crab, shrimp or lobster. A hot soup incorporates fava beans and wild mushrooms in a summery minestrone.

At a recent dinner, I was promised the best steak I had ever eaten and it certainly was a succulent and tender piece of meat. It becomes part of a flavor treat when combined in the mixed grill that also includes a double cut lamb chop and a Mozambique signature sausage, along with Spanish onions saut & #233;ed in Castle lager and Mozambique Spice Company steak sauce. The latter is one of several signature sauces they now make and sell.

Lamb curry, in a style unique to the South African coastal city of Durban, is slowly simmered in select spices and served with traditional condiments. It’s been my main course many times. A medley of seafood and shellfish is also offered in a mild curry sauce.

When peri-peri sauce meets lemon and butter, it performs as a delicately balanced flavoring agent for lobster tails.

Everybody’s doing short ribs and here they are flavored with the Mozambique barbecue sauce. They even do a combo plate of peri-peri chicken, lobster tail and short ribs with a cheesy polenta and grilled veggies. Many cuts of steak and chops are on the new menu and there are even some handcrafted pasta, ravioli and gnocchi dishes to make all customers happy, plus a good version of roasted chicken.

I’ve had several South African wines during the past few years. But from this list, you should certainly try the following sleek tastes:

– The 2003 Quoin Rock, Oculus Sauvignon Blanc delivers ample stone fruit meeting a few mineral elements in a wine that’s equally nice for sipping or with food.

– The 2004 Sterhuis Chardonnay is a complex blend of tropicality, wood and honey melded into a chardonnay that I, the reluctant chardonnay drinker, can enjoy over and over.

– I do not want you to miss the 2003 Kaapzicht Steytler Vision Cape Blend from the Kaapzicht Winery in the highly regarded Stellenbosch district. This is a big, saturated but velvety smooth wine unfolding behind a dense plum color with aromas of equally deep dark berry fruit rounded out with oak, a modicum of spiciness and a faint background of chocolate. I adore this wine.

– Finally, the 2003 Mudge Point Syrah is yet another fine example of the nobility of the New World wines coming out of South Africa. I can describe them endlessly but you have to taste them yourself to discover that the Southern Hemisphere is making wines comparable to any in the world.

The very ample wine list is easy to navigate, set up with categories from the lightest to the heaviest bodied wines. It is also well punctuated with Italian, French, South American, Australian, New Zealand and California wines.

Desserts waltz with bananas, lemons, chocolate, berries, coconut and cheese. If you can’t find something of intrigue in their pastry repertoire, there’s no hope for you.

Finally, I should mention that there’s a different theme upstairs in the Coastal Lounge. Live music, an energetic bar, seating with a view of the ocean across the street and a more casual lounge style menu convey the totally unpretentious side of Laguna.

Likewise, the downstairs patio offers outdoor seating amid pleasant greenery and flowerbeds.

Mozambique is celebrating its second anniversary. For any type of an evening out choose your atmosphere: outdoors, upstairs in the lounge, or on the main level in the attractively appointed dining rooms (my favorite is the room to the right of the entry just as you enter the building).

Dinner entrees are priced from $10 to $34. Dinner is served nightly. The Coastal Lounge is open from 4 p.m. weeknights and from 11 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Brunch is served on Sunday. Mozambique Steakhouse and Coastal Lounge: 1740 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach (949) 715-7100.


‘Sunset Suppers’

French 75 at Fashion Island and The Market Place still is featuring “sunset suppers.” This is a prix fixe menu available from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. nightly.

There’s a choice of three appetizers: heirloom tomato bisque with a brie cheese croustade, butter lettuce salad with Roquefort cheese, or shrimp en cassolette with Dijon-Cognac sauce.

Entrees are herb-roasted chicken, flatiron steak or roasted sea bass. All have appropriate accompaniments and sauces on the plate.

Dessert allows a choice of Tahitian vanilla bean cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e, an individual Belgian chocolate souffle or fresh fruit sorbet with berries.

Sunset suppers are $30. French 75 at Fashion Island: 327 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach (949) 640-2700. French 75 at Market Place: 13290 Jamboree Road (at Irvine Boulevard), Irvine (714) 573-7600.


Five-Course Tasting

Chat Noir in Costa Mesa is now offering special multicourse dinners on Thursday evenings. Chef Joe Youkhan’s five-course tasting menu is priced at $75 per person. Wine pairings can be added to the courses.

These menus are based on the freshest seasonal ingredients with emphasis on artisan production and locally grown foods. Happily, the chef’s menu is available for groups. I’m going to gather some of my foodie friends and take advantage of this.

Chat Noir: 655 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa (714) 557-6647. Reservations should be made for the chef’s tasting menu.

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