Orange County has a fine wine connection in Tim Busch, known in some circles for his work as a tax attorney,his company is The Busch Firm.
Others know Tim as a hotel developer. He’s also known in charitable circles. I know him as a connoisseur of fine wines and now as the co-owner of Trinitas Cellars in Sonoma County.
Several months ago, we had the opportunity to taste the Trinitas 2001 Russian River Valley Red Zinfandel, the 2002 Bigelow Ranch Red Zinfandel and the 2003 Russian River Valley Pinot Blanc.
These were the winery’s first three vintages. We’d gathered the bottles at our dining room table and shared them with a few friends over a meal.
Dinner consisted of small, diverse tastes that strode through some European, Asian and American cuisines. I cooked up all those disparate dishes so that we could try the wines with a broad spectrum of foods, all spiced differently.
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Wines from Trinitas Cellars: OC lawyer a partner in Sonoma winery |
It was certainly a fun evening. Now, a few months later, we’ve tasted most of their wines and the fun continues.
This story began when Tim called me a few years ago to help him select and arrange stops at some wineries in France. He was putting together a tour for the OC chapter of Legatus, a group of catholic chief executives and their spouses.
Tim had been referred to me by Ben and Carmela Du, longtime friends. Ben, incidentally, had founded FloJet here in OC in 1975. He sold it to ITT Industries Inc. in 1990.
Tim and I got along well as we sank into thoughts of good wine and anticipated exciting experiences for the Legatus trip to France. The trip was a success.
Then, Tim began to invest in hotels and that brought his name to my attention as well as provided a few opportunities to share a table with him at his hotel openings and such.
It was a decision by Tim and his wife Steph to become founding partners of a winery that really piqued my curiosity. A friendship with legendary winemaker Matt Cline and Ray and Bette Rodeno, who also have a great love of the grape, led to their partnership and Trinitas.
The name works well. Winemaker Matt Cline yields to his California heritage in his quest for the perfect handcrafted zinfandel, petite sirah and mataro (mourv & #269;dre) wines through what he believes is the pure trinity of wine,”sun, soil and the human influence working together.”
The winery is dedicated to bringing historical California vineyards and varietals to the forefront of winemaking.
Trinitas scored a coup by getting Matt as the winemaker. Matt, you see, is the grandson of Valeriano Jacuzzi, one of the first Italian settlers to plant grapes around the turn of the century in Contra Costa County, east of San Francisco Bay.
By the late 1980s, Matt was making wine at his family’s famed Cline Cellars, popular for its concentrated and cellar worthy zinfandels, among other varietals.
He’d discovered great possibilities from his grandfather’s 30 acres of vines in his backyard (soon to be the North Coast appellation), along with hundreds of other acres of vineyards from immigrant families.
At that time, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon also was settling in the area, producing stellar and powerful wines that still are the darlings of wine aficionados.
Famous neighbors of Cline Cellars also included Ravenswood and Ridge.
Those wines, along with the wines from Matt’s efforts, set the benchmark for zinfandel and Southern Rhone type wines in California.
In 2000, Matt decided to take his knowledge in winemaking to the Trinitas partnership. Wine partners, but not family ties, were the impetus for his free flight into the world of wines he wanted to make that were even more memorable than wines of his past.
So far, it’s been a good ride. All of the wines from Trinitas have been rated in the high 80s by Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast and the major wine writers across America. The 2002 Contra Costa County, Bigelow Vineyard Zinfandel took a Gold medal at the Orange County Wine Competition.
Here’s a quick run-down on some of Matt’s current-release Trinitas wines that we recently have tried, all of which sell for $18 to $28.
The 2002 Petite Sirah Russian River Valley is a very concentrated wine that brings massive tastes of plums, berries and cassis to the mouth with the yin yang of mellow vanilla meeting a slight peppery undertone in the finish. It’s a dream for red meats and wild game.
Old Vine Mataro 2003 comes from the mourv & #269;dre grape that is renowned in the French appellation of Bandol. This wine, from a vineyard that was allowed to produce only 1.5 tons per acre, is primed with character: full dark berry flavors, violet flowers and hints of wild cherries.
The Mataro is predicted to cellar well for a decade. I’m thinking of this one for my family’s Thanksgiving dinner.
The intensely flavored 2002 Russian River Valley Petite Sirah comes from the legendary Bacigalupi Vineyard and sports a dense blue-black color and the taste of boysenberries, blackberries and plums. It is completely mouth filling and lingers forever in aroma as well as taste. Drink it now or age it for seven to 10 years.
Triad 1999 cabernet-based wine may not be available as it was only a two-barrel production of an incredibly concentrated wine from a vintage that Matt describes as the best in 20 years. If you can find it (possibly online), it delivers wonderful deep tastes and a possibility of aging for years.
Contact your favorite wine purveyor,The Wine Club in Santa Ana, Rolf’s in Newport Beach and Hi Time in Costa Mesa come to mind,or go to www.trinitascellars.com for more information on the wines and where to buy them.
Trinitas’ mailing address is P.O. Box 2069, Sonoma, 95476. Phone: (707) 935-3504.
Enjoying the Bubbly
French 75 Brasserie at the Market Place in Irvine, Rouge at Fashion Island, and Chat Noir in Costa Mesa now have Bubbly Hours.
The fun happens weekdays from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. and 10 p.m. to 11 p.m. All of the restaurants’ signature champagne cocktails are 50% off during those hours.
Wines by the carafe also are discounted,they are offered at prices you’d pay per glass. Add some complimentary hors d’oeuvres and life’s more bubbly than ever.
There’s also Bubbly Hours and free nibbles at French 75 in Laguna Beach from 5:30 p.m. to 7 p.m., Monday through Friday.
The restaurants are part of David Wilhelm’s Culinary Adventures company.
If you’ve not yet tried the newest restaurant in this chain, French 75 Brasserie, put it on your must-do list. It has all the pizzazz and ambiance of a bistro in Paris.
French 75 Brasserie: 13290 Jamboree Road, (714) 573-7600. Rouge: 327 Newport Center Drive (Fashion Island), Newport Beach, (949) 640-2700. Chat Noir: 655 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 557-6647. French 75: 1464 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, (949) 494-8444.
Vietnamese-Style Debut
Irvine is on fast forward with restaurant openings.
I recently wrote about Tri-Village, a new Chinese restaurant in the Albertson/Kohl’s shopping center on Jeffrey Road near Trabuco in Irvine.
It’s been joined by another ethnic restaurant, Saigon Grille, an authentic Vietnamese restaurant with the charming ambiance you’d find in Vietnam.
Saigon Grille, however, doesn’t limit its food to dishes only from Saigon. The owners bring us additional variety with traditional dishes from North, Central and South Vietnam.
The menu includes a lot of grilled meats and seafood such as Pho (a traditional Vietnamese beef noodle soup), Bo Luc Lac (filet mignon cubes flashed cook with garlic and onions) and Cha Ca Thang Long (filet of sole marinated in turmeric-ginger sauce and served with saut & #233;ed baby dill).
The traditional Vietnamese desserts are quite delicious.
Try the fried bananas with coconut sauce or coconut flan to finish off your meal.
As part of Saigon Grille’s launch, diners get a free soda with each entree and 10% off their bill if they bring in a business card. The special runs through Dec. 31.
The restaurant is open Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Saigon Grille is in the Trabuco Grove Shopping Center at 14021 Jeffrey Road (one block from Trabuco) in Irvine.
For reservations and further information, call (949) 733-3320.
Another in Irvine
Irvine has another new restaurant,Stonefire Grill.
Stonefire is a sibling to the original in Huntington Beach. Irvine’s Stonefire is in the Crossroads Center at Culver Drive and Barranca Parkway in the space that formerly housed Hof’s Hut.
Stonefire has a casual, homestyle setting. There’s something for everyone who wants down-home food. The menu has categories for pizzas, salads, sandwiches, pastas and grilled items and signature dishes.
Chicken, tri-tip roast, baby back ribs and sesame glazed salmon are items from the grill.
Portions are hearty and meals are complemented by side dishes such as garlic mashed potatoes, cole slaw with nuts and cowboy-style baked beans.
While all things come in individualized portions, many of the menu’s offerings can be delivered to the table family-style for sharing.
When you’ve wound down from the main portion of the meal, this is the place to indulge in a delicious version of carrot cake. The giant portions of fudge brownie and cheesecake also are good desserts to share.
Lunch and dinner are served daily. Stonefire: 3966 Barranca Parkway, Irvine. Phone: (949) 777-1177.