Rolf’s Nose for Wine Has Aided Customers Since ’50s
EXECUTIVE DINING
by Fifi Chao
What is it that makes a hometown wine shop something very special? Especially when the atmosphere is mostly simple wall racks showing off bottles for sale and cases of neatly stacked wine?
It’s the bond that the owners have forged with customers that’s the star ingredient at Rolf’s Wine Shop in Newport Beach. No wonder I’ve been buying wines at Rolf’s for so many years.
Rolf Engen and the shop’s managing partner, Rick Webster, have been sharing their wine finds with customers at this location for more than two decades. Rolf’s started in a Tustin shop in 1953 and in between all these years, there were five wine shops in various parts of OC.
Rolf is a well-known OC figure in other realms as well. Not least of which is because he served as volleyball commissioner at the 1984 Olympics.
In 1968, Rick, in college at the time, began working for Rolf and caught the wine bug big-time. After time out for military service, he returned to the wine shop in 1973.
Long before it was common practice, Rolf was conducting weekly wine meetings with his staff and having them taste the wines they were selling. He wanted everyone on the staff to be fully knowledgeable about what was in his wine shops.
In the 1970s, Italian reds weren’t stellar, at least the ones being shipped to the U.S. So Rolf and Rick didn’t give them as much attention as wines such as the German whites that were revealing a finesse quite pleasant to the American palate. By the early 1970s, industry guys,distributors and sales reps for various wineries,were attending Rolf’s classes.
Later in the decade the general public really began to appreciate wine and the “buzz” was on. Remember, though, that back then there weren’t that many California wineries.
But by the 1980s, the public was embracing California wines. Those were the days when every winery concentrated on chardonnay, which was the wine of choice for most wine drinkers. Never me, though,I’ve always appreciated chardonnay but by far prefer red wine.
We’ve come a long way in training our palates: through the sauvignon blanc, viognier and merlot phase and now into the nuances of meritage wines, the rediscovery of wonderful zinfandels, the new discovery of California wines made from Italian and French grape varietals and the undying power punch of cabernets. Pinot noirs are still doing well and the public is finding out that California has some lovely syrah wines as well.
Unfortunately, people still don’t seem to understand the wonderful qualities in some of the world’s ros & #233;s. For this, we can thank the useless marketing tool called white zinfandel that passed itself off as a decent blush wine to unsuspecting consumers.
The difference between a white zin and a true ros & #233; is as wide as the difference between a chardonnay and a cabernet. Perhaps a visit to Rolf’s will prove ros & #233;’s charms to you.
Today, Rick says that while Rolf’s offers a very wide range of wines from many countries that are fully affordable (I am amazed at how many great wines they stock that are below $10 per bottle), customers still buy more California wines.
Customers are more familiar with them and, in many cases, they are more affordable than comparable wines from other countries. But Rick notes that Australian wines are making inroads, especially the shiraz and shiraz/cabernet blends, some of which are “very Californiaesque.”
When I asked Rick how he goes about helping someone choose wines, he said, “We want to know what our customers’ tastes are and we want them to be happy with what we suggest. We discuss their preferences so we get an idea of what they’ve been drinking before coming to our store. Our challenge is to find lesser-priced wines,in the teens and under,that are great.”
He says that once there’s trust in what you’re selling, customers come to rely upon the staff’s suggestions for affordable wines and he will personally help anyone who comes in.
Here are some wines that I served with two dinners at home that I cooked for a few friends. These wines are now in stock at Rolf’s.
I loved the ripeness in the nose of apples, vanilla and the mouth-rounding ample finish of the 2000 Raymond Monterey Chardonnay. The creamy tone of this wine had even me pouring an extra portion. It sold for $7.99.
Then, for $5.99, I came away with the Domaine de Valensac 2001 Chardonnay from the Languedoc region of France. I served this with sweet cured salmon wrapped in filo dough and the super-clean floral notes and crisp fruit was quite fine with the lightness of this appetizer.
Our guests at one dinner loved the $6.99 2000 Rancho Zabaco Dancing Bull Zinfandel with our roasted goose. After that, I found it on the wine list at an Indian restaurant and had fun matching it with several dishes. Next on the list is some spicy Chinese food that should also do well with this wine. It’s not tannic and not too high in alcohol and has lots of wild berries and a bit of spice that makes it work well with ethnic foods.
From California, the 2000 Angeline Cabernet Sauvignon is a steal at $8.99. Lots of berries and a hint of toffee in the nose with enough complexity to make it mouth filling. The soft tannins make it a fine wine for sipping as well as having with food.
And please do grab a bottle of the 2000 Domaine du Vieux Ch & #281;ne, Cuve & #233; B & #233;atrice. It’s a C & #244;tes du Rh & #244;ne Village wine made of 100% syrah. Gorgeous nose of rich ripe floral and blackberry essences. It grips the mouth and layers of flavor emerge with a long and revealing finish. At $8.99 a bottle, I might be buying a case of this one.
Rolf’s handles up to 400 brands at any one time with about 1,200 labels in the shop. You won’t find a friendlier place to hang out and to learn a lot about wines that won’t break the bank.
I count myself as one of the fortunate ones who never panic about wines of any kind or for any occasion. I love calling this shop and talking to Rick about some menu I am planning or an interesting wine to take for a gift.
He gives me many suggestions every time and by the time I walk in to pick up the wine, Rick will most likely have narrowed down the wines to two or three that will never fail to impress.
AT A GLANCE: ROLF’S WINE SHOP
Address: 950 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach
Phone: (949) 631-1212