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Fifi’s Favorites

Fifi’s Favorites

AMELIA’S

311 Marine Ave., Balboa Island

(949) 673-6580

Lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch

The same family has owned this very warm and inviting place since 1961. Hetty Robinson’s parents founded the restaurant when she was a young girl.

She and her English-born husband, John, have lovingly run the restaurant for the last two decades.

They serve regional Italian food with the accent on fresh seafood and strive to keep the restaurant the same in terms of familiarity, while adding new dishes for customer enjoyment. They have demonstrated an ability over the years to stay focused on their longtime customers and local families.

It is the island place of choice for many special occasion meals.

You might lose your heart to the delicious Bouillabaisse.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Sampler plate with three kinds of broiled fish, served with linguine and vegetables

– Lady sole layered with scallops and crab and topped with almondine sauce

– Calamari amelia, stuffed with crab and cheese, broiled and sauced with marinara

– Scampi and filet mignon (black angus beef) combo

– Bouillabaisse containing clams, fish, lobster, mussels, shrimp and scallops

– Angel hair pasta with fresh bay scallops, baby calamari and fresh marinara sauce

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Use the freshest, best ingredients you can find.

ANTONELLO

3800 S. Plaza Drive (South Coast Plaza Village), Santa Ana

(714) 751-7153

Lunch, dinner

Refined Northern Italian food is served in a gorgeous reproduction d & #233;cor of a street scene in owner Antonio Cagnolo’s hometown in Italy.

While the Japanese prime minister and a brace of U.S. secret service agents dined here on one evening, more visible celebrities and sports figures are the norm, along with those of us who trust in the quality of food and the professional service,much of the staff has been there from 10 to 23 years.

The Rotelle di Pasta is awesome!

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Carpaccio originale comprised of thin slices of cured beef tenderloin drizzled lightly with extra virgin olive oil, fresh lemon, capers and shaved Parmesan cheese; or the Trio di Antipasti featuring three of the most popular items

– Caprese rustica with fresh bufala mozzarella, tomato and basil served on roasted bell peppers

– Ravioletti di mamma pina, tiny ravioli filled with veal and dappled with Bolognese meat sauce

– Rotelle di pasta, baked sheets of homemade pasta rolled with prosciutto, mozzarella and b & #233;chamel, served with a vodka cream sauce

– Saltimboca alla romana, a veal scaloppine topped with prosciutto and sage in a white wine demi-glace

– Lombata di vitellina: roasted chop of free-range veal with porcini mushrooms and black truffle sauce

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Make Penne al Salmone:

Heat 2 tablespoons sweet butter in a saut & #233; pan with 2 tablespoons minced shallots and 1/2 cup chopped green onion. Cook till onions slightly caramelize. Add 6 ounces coarsely chopped smoked salmon and deglaze pan with 4 tablespoons vodka. Reduce 50%, add 1 cup heavy cream and 1 cup chopped fresh tomatoes and reduce by 25%. Pour over freshly cooked penne pasta and finish with 2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley on top of the dish. Makes 4 servings.

ARCHES

3334 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach

(949) 645-7077

Lunch, dinner

The oldest of our legendary restaurants, dating back to 1922. It’s been owned by Dan Marcheano, a passionate restaurateur if ever there was one, since 1982.

Traditional/Continental food of the highest caliber is served in the clubby atmosphere of an East Coast steakhouse.

I adore the big booths, the caring tableside service and the only menu in the county that covers the most beloved food classics we’ve always understood.

Of course, they also serve one of the best martinis around. Whenever you feel that the whole world has turned into a trendy array of over-the-top restaurants, repack your mental suitcase at this comforting and very special place. If you don’t tell anyone, I’ll share three of my favorite dishes with you: frog legs, beef stroganoff and curry shrimp.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Tableside caesar salad

– Tableside Steak Diane

– Florida stone crab claws

– Rib eye steak

– Abalone or fresh seafood of any kind

– Bananas flamb & #233;

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Make the simplest dishes from a few fresh ingredients at home and eat in the restaurant the rest of the time.

BACK BAY ROWING

& RUNNING CLUB

3333 S. Bristol (in South Coast Plaza), Costa Mesa

(714) 641-0118

Lunch, dinner

If there’s enticing, casual food to be had during a shopping foray, this is the paramount stop. It could be called “American Eclectic” food, but it really does have a wider range than that and all of it tastes terrific no matter what you call it.

It came on the scene in 1979 and has not changed its focus from what the owners, the Rosoff family, know: good service and quality, value-priced food.

Chef/manager Donnie Bruyn has kept the food interesting and the rapport with the public going for 23 years.

The atmosphere is collegiate boathouse and super comfortable, which makes it a worthwhile destination restaurant for me. The salad bar is sensational, probably the best in OC.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Killer burgers

– Classic club sandwich

– Famous turkey and avocado sandwich

– The salad bar

– Beef stroganoff

– Green chicken quesadillas

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Make simple meat, pasta and salad dishes and use chopped fresh herbs to spruce things up: basil on the pasta dish, cilantro on the salad or even on your homemade Mexican food, tarragon on baked chicken.

BISTANGO

19100 Von Karman Ave., Irvine

(949) 752-5222

Lunch, dinner

The dining public has been enamored of the food, the art and the very contemporary demeanor of this restaurant since John Ghoukassian opened it in 1987. His son, Marc, now takes an equal stance in operating Bistango.

The colorful awnings and umbrellas give a friendly note, but there’s no denying that there’s sophistication at the table and certainly in all the impressive art and sculptures that are changed regularly. The bar is a wonderful place to unwind. The American Contemporary food is ever-creative to keep us coming back, but it’s also always understandable. Exciting seafood, game, meat and pasta dishes join unique pizzas, intriguing appetizers and fine prix-fixe lunches and dinners. The sweet garlic soup is as good as soup gets.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Seared diver scallops on sticky rice

– Tartar of tuna with cucumber and chile vinaigrette

– Grilled rare tuna with Asian vegetables

– Medallions of venison loin with rosemary-infused roasted California peaches

– Filet mignon with trio of potatoes and red wine reduction

– Rack of lamb with French green beans, baby carrots and mashed potatoes

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Finely mince a little fresh basil, and add 4 tablespoons of good olive oil and a dash of salt and mix well. Grill a piece of fresh fish (1-2 inches thick) on the barbecue, after brushing with the basil oil, and serve it over fresh heirloom tomatoes drizzled with a vinaigrette in which you use the rest of the basil oil.

CAT & CUSTARD CUP

800 E. Whittier Blvd., La Habra

(562) 694-3812

Lunch, dinner

We usually think of the Salisbury family, Ron and his sons, as being associated with their very famous El Cholo restaurants. However, in 1979 this country inn, that’s just dripping with English manor charm, was founded.

It has always been one of the star restaurants for contemporary California cuisine. From the inviting English garden patio, through the warm and inviting pub, past the fireplace and baby grand piano and into the cozy dining room, this is quite a come-hither atmosphere.

Their vision is to constantly deliver a quality product with sensitivity to pricing and to enhance the dining experience with attentive, professional service. I can attest that they are accomplishing this. Additionally, a large and comprehensive wine list is there to enhance the interesting food presentations.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Seared sea scallops with lobster sauce and chipotle mashed potatoes

– Baked almond goat cheese with roasted garlic and sun-dried tomato cream sauce

– Crab cakes and avocado relish

– Saut & #233;ed halibut and sea scallops

– Seared venison medallions in dried blueberry/merlot sauce with braised leeks

– Filet mignon accompanied by wild blackberry sauce and roasted asparagus

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Listen to your tastebuds and be playful with even classic dishes by adding a bit of herbs for an unexpected highlight.

CRAB COOKER

2200 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach

(949) 673-0100

Lunch, dinner

They lined up around the block when Bob Roubian turned this former bank (where I once worked) into a restaurant in 1951. The line has shortened, but since they take no reservations, you may still have a brief wait.

The key here is that there’s never been a change from the focus of serving the freshest seafood and keeping it consistent. It’s an authentic restaurant, meaning it knows what it’s doing, does it well, and the building looks the part.

It looks like the fish places you’d find along the wharf in Maine or Georgia (San Francisco is way too upscale along the water). Simple furnishings with fishing equipment and other varied memorabilia that’s mostly amusing does the trick here. I invariably have oysters on the half-shell and the fresh catch of the day.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Clam chowder

– Fried squid

– Smoked albacore

– Maryland-style crab cakes

– Alaskan king crab

– Scallops, skewered with bacon and grilled

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Remember that good, fresh food does not require a lot of seasoning. Search out and buy the best foods the world has to offer.

FIVE CROWNS

3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar

(949) 760-0331

Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch

How do I describe the best of an English Tudor inn? How do I adequately describe the heartwarming California Continental fare? Simply by saying that the charm of it all has been in this restaurant since 1965?

I guess I’ll add that the country home feeling I get when I sit in the high-backed, custom-upholstered chair and peruse my menu and wine list at the pristinely draped table always makes me thankful to have this restaurant to come back to.

By the time wine is ordered from the impressive wine cellar and we settle on what to eat, the decision has been made to take it easy and just savor a relaxing time. Talk about a beautiful and comforting package!

It is likely that the porcini mushroom ravioli and the Pride of the Crowns salad (more than delicious) will start my meal, but then it’s a gamble as to whether I’ll be having prime rib, roasted duck or veal loin with sage for an entr & #233;e.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Crab cakes

– Smoked salmon benedict with dilled hollandaise

– Prime ribs of beef

– Potato-crusted salmon

– Beefsteak neptune

– Roast rack of Colorado lamb

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

The horseradish cream sauce to accompany our prime rib is the most requested,use it for beef dishes at home. It’s simple, with just four ingredients. Mix 1 cup of unsweetened whipped cream with 2 tablespoons of freshly grated horseradish root (more or less to taste). Add 1/4 teaspoon Lawry’s seasoned salt and a dash of Tabasco. Mix well. Note: prepared horseradish does not work well for this.

GOLDEN TRUFFLE

1767 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa

(949) 645-9858

Lunch, dinner

Creative chef/owner on the loose.

Alan Greeley has dazzled this county with so much creative food, and yet I still find people who do not know he’s the equivalent to a three-star chef from Europe. In his sweet little bistro with its added homage to value-priced wine, Alan is not bound by convention or blind faith to any one style of cuisine.

You will always find pasta dishes,one of my runaway favorites is macaroni and cheese with truffles,seductive shellfish of some kind, Jamaican items, perhaps foie gras, and standbys such as veal chop, pork tenderloin and roasted gypsy chicken. I never, ever tire of his food. His mission statement is good value for the dollar, complete dedication to quality and a sense of humor.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Fresh crayfish salad,a frequent special of the day

– “Some kind of soup”,this is Greeley’s term for an always luscious soup-of-the-day

– Mesquite-smoked halibut with warm chamomile butter,also a recurring special

– Duck tacos

– Miyagi loin steak

– Tropical fruit snow cone

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Relax. It’s no big deal. Quality wins every time.

GUSTAF ANDERS

3851 Bear St. (in South Coast Plaza Village), Santa Ana

(714) 668-1737

Lunch, dinner and special brunches

Co-owners Bill Gustaf Magnuson and Ulf Anders Strandberg (Ulf is the chef) have been dazzling diners with their Scandinavian food since 1981. It’s really leaning towards Swedish food with continental accents.

They concentrate on maintaining the Swedish traditions of serving highest quality comfort food based on classic dishes. This sedate and formal dining room with fine art on the walls is side-by-side with their more casual Back Pocket restaurant, where the same quality reigns; however, it’s more casual in every aspect.

Gustaf Anders has no peer in Southern California. It’s the only place we can get a dozen varieties of herring, a salad topped with sliced lamb and Swedish meatballs with lingonberries. No wonder Conde Nast Traveler magazine says it’s one of the 50 best restaurants in America.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Parsley salad

– Herring

– Gravad lax

– Filet surrounded by Stilton cheese and a red wine sauce

– Swedish cabbage rolls

– Princess cake

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

When making gravad lax, instead of putting a heavy weight on the salmon, wrap fish in plastic wrap, then foil. Make sure it is wrapped tightly and then secure with masking tape. This will put even pressure on the fish for curing with the salt, sugar and dill.

IL FORNAIO

18051 Von Karman, Irvine

(949) 261-1444

Lunch, dinner

This is one of my favorite hangouts. Why not? There’s authentic Italian regional food at great prices, Italian villa d & #233;cor, professional service, a passionate chef and a homey feeling that relaxes me every time.

With its understated elegance, this place is so fine if you are in casual clothes or in your best outfit for the theater. Since 1991, we’ve been enjoying the monthly regional specialties that are an addition to the regular menu for a few days each month and I have eaten a king’s ransom of the amazing lobster ravioli over the years.

This restaurant has its own bakery so the breads are baked twice daily and the variety that comes to the table is so compelling you must restrain yourself from filling up on it. I do a lot of business lunches here.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Insalata del Fornaio: baby greens, shaved Parmigiano cheese, chef’s vinaigrette

– Cappellacci di zucca: homemade pasta filled with fresh butternut squash and walnuts in a brown butter, sage and tomato sauce (I love this dish)

– Linguine mare chiaro: pasta with several kinds of shellfish, tomato, garlic and Trebbiano wine

– Pollo Toscano: rotisserie chicken with rosemary and white wine reduction sauce

– Anatra: rotisserie duck

– Salmone alla brace: baked in the wood-fired oven

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Cook a simple Capellini al Pomodoro: Boil water with 1 teaspoon salt. Cook pasta 3 minutes (al dente). Make sauce: Saut & #233; sliced garlic in 1 ounce extra virgin olive oil just until it begins to turn golden brown, then add some chopped fresh basil, chopped tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste. Toss pasta and sauce together.

LA BRASSERIE

202 S. Main St., Orange

(714) 978-6161

Lunch, dinner

When Paul Rossi and Joseph Vieillemaringe teamed up in 1977, little did they realize that a quarter century later they’d still be enticing diners at the same location with their French/ Continental food and engaging French country home atmosphere.

As the front of their menu states, “We’ve had nothing but kind words from the restaurant critics and have won many awards.” There’s a lot to like in this cozy enclave that seems so far away from the hectic world outside its doors.

Service is friendly with just the right amount of attentiveness and Joseph’s food is memorable enough to sate the cravings of many French expats here in OC and those of us who visit France fairly often and look for the same tastes at home.

If you’ve missed this restaurant after all these years, it’s high time you gave yourself the gift of a meal, which will get you started on the catch-up path.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Steak Diane

– Dover sole

– Coq au vin

– Veal du chef

– Sweetbreads La Brasserie

– Lobster Newburg

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

If you cannot use all the fresh herbs in the package from the supermarket and won’t be able to use the rest within a couple of days, chop each herb up separately,or pull the leaves or needles, as in rosemary, from the tough stems,and put each in a small container with a tight lid. Pour good olive oil over them, refrigerate and use for cooking within a week. If you won’t use them that quickly, freeze the oil and herbs and use whatever portion you need each time you are making a sauce.

LA FAYETTE

12532 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove

(714) 537-5011

Lunch, dinner

It’s one of a few restaurants that has only booth seating,nice, big, comfortable ones. Though tables are pristinely napped, there’s an aura of coziness here almost akin to a bistro.

Of course, the robust, classic French dishes, so lovingly prepared by Edmond Sarfati, who also happens to own the restaurant (wife Joyce oversees the dining room), send the message that this is a serious dining establishment. That’s why so many French chefs have meals here on their days off.

We’ve been going to La Fayette since it opened in 1972 and we’re not about to stop,I’m just about to make another dinner reservation because I’ve been missing Edmond’s food again.

This couple claims such a loyal customer base that it’s like a room full of friends gathering all the time.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– House foie gras

– Fresh dover sole

– Rabbit in red wine sauce

– Sweetbreads Financiere (one of my beloved dishes)

– Rack of lamb bouqueti & #269;re

– Frog legs Proven & #231;al

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Summer is here and it’s salad time! Make a good French dressing for your salads. Always start with red wine vinegar, then salt so that it dissolves nicely. Add oil of your choice, a little Dijon mustard if you like, and freshly ground black pepper. Shake well and pour over a composed salad of sliced beets, Belgian endive, watercress, chopped shallot and a hard-boiled egg, quartered. Voila!

LAS BRISAS

361 Cliff Drive, Laguna Beach

(949) 497-5434

Breakfast, lunch, dinner,

Sunday brunch

World-famous views, foods of the Mexican Riviera with a hint of French/Continental thrown in for good measure, plus superb margaritas, make this a happy dining experience.

From 1938 to 1979 it was the Victor Hugo Inn. It then was converted to the colorful but sophisticated Las Brisas. Sometimes when I need to repack my mental suitcases, a little down time watching the ocean from this cliff-top view and having a meal here can renew my energies.

I am quite fond of their marinated and braised 14-ounce pork chop with caram-elized apples, onions and mango chutney.

It always reminds me that there’s a finesse about this food and a reason beyond Mexican dishes to make a reservation. I keep finding people who have no idea what this kitchen is capable of and what they are missing.

With summer here, the beach and this restaurant beckon.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Shrimp and lobster medallions and crab served with a mustard cocktail sauce

– Jalape & #324;o fettuccine tossed with scallops, mussels, crab, shrimp and tomato salsa

– Abalone-style calamari steak

– New York steak on a bed of fried onions with tequila brown sauce

– Breast of chicken with tropical fruit salsa

– Seafood enchilada and beef tamale

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Make tortilla pizzas on the barbecue for appetizers or entrees: Shred some cheddar, jack and/or mozzarella cheese and set aside.

Saut & #233; some chopped onion in a little butter until they turn golden and set aside. Chop some fresh tomato and set aside. Chop some fresh herbs and set aside.

Grill flour tortillas on both sides until they have grill marks but are not burned. Sprinkle each with some cheese, onion, tomato and a bit of herbs for interest. Put tortillas on the cooler, back part of the grill and close the cover for about 2 minutes, until the cheese is melted.

Cut in small pieces for appetizers, in wedges as an entr & #233;e. You can also add some pre-cooked meat if desired.

LA VIE EN ROSE

240 S. State College Blvd., Brea

(714) 529-8333

Lunch, dinner

This is such a well-balanced restaurant. A blending of Old World hospitality and a level of service that is appreciated by today’s more sophisticated diners is an important part of their concept.

In fact, they have a personal mandate to “make guests comfortable by tailoring our service to the individual to ensure we exceed their expectations.”

But there’s also the ambiance. This is like a little trip to the French countryside. Since 1980, the Normandy farmhouse coziness has tugged at many heartstrings.

The country French food with an accent on the Gascony area is equally important.

Give me one more helping of grilled sea bass on a mattress of vegetable “bouillabaisse,” a Salade Rebecca studded with walnuts, apricots and orange vinaigrette dressing and a helping of something from the pastry chariot and I am one happy camper.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Escargot in herb butter

– Salmon tartar with cucumber/lime relish (I love it!)

– Saut & #233;ed veal sweetbreads with whole grain mustard cream sauce (another of my dream dishes)

– Baked sea bass with tomato, shallots, saffron and white wine melange

– Pan-roasted duck breast and duck leg confit with blueberry sauce

– Grand Marnier, chocolate or raspberry souffl & #233;

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Start with high quality, very fresh products, add a bottle of wine for inspiration and don’t be afraid to let your creativity loose.

McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S SEAFOOD

2000 Main St., Irvine

(949) 756-0505

Lunch, dinner

Here, the menu is printed daily because the great array of fresh fish and shellfish that is the mainstay of the menu varies.

The catch is sometimes full of surprises that open new avenues to creative seafood preparations. This is what keeps the restaurant exciting and filled with customers.

The ambiance, loaded with fine wood detailing and with a dignified demeanor, upscale of what we envision a seafood house to be, is conducive to business dining. However, it’s always a welcoming place for personal meals as well.

The intent in building this restaurant was to provide strong, distinctive architecture reminiscent of an earlier time with a subliminal environment that says it is straightforward and sophisticated, but also retains a sense of being lively and inviting. It fits easily into our dining psyche in Orange County.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Crab cakes

– Clam chowder

– Stuffed salmon

– Pancetta prawns

– Grilled halibut

– Seafood stew

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Quick solution to keep fish from sticking to the grill: cut a white potato in half and rub in one direction over the hot grill.

OYSTERS

2515 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar

(949) 675-7411

Dinner

Oysters offers an aura of casual sophistication in its food, service and d & #233;cor. Cary Redfearn, co-owner along with Walt and Mona Babcock of Walt’s Wharf (Cary runs this restaurant), said, “in the last decade, the years have served to add layers to our identity.”

That’s a pretty profound statement inasmuch as they’ve always had a good grasp of their concept and kept the food, ambiance and service on the same page, but have been an increasingly integral part of the community with each passing year.

The contemporary, urban stylishness of the restaurant is a good backdrop for the Cal-Asian food. They also have acquired an Award of Excellence from the Wine Spectator for their 430-label wine list. This is the kind of hometown place that loyal customers consider “theirs.”

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Kung pao calamari

– Flat iron-seared Hawaiian ahi

– Oak-grilled Hawaiian swordfish

– Pan-seared diver scallops (hand-harvested) and jumbo prawns

– Seared filet mignon

– Oak-grilled Colorado lamb trio

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Always start your cooking with a very hot grill or saut & #233; pan to sear the steak or fish. This keeps the juices in and adds caramelization and flavor to the final product.

Don’t adjust the heat on the grill or the pan; let the heat do its work.

PARTNERS BISTRO

448 S. Coast High-way, Laguna Beach

(949) 497-4441

Lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch

I remember when it opened in 1978. We sat at a window table for dinner and I thought all evening how charming this building was. Of course, it is at the front of historic and cuddly Peppertree Lane.

The restaurant has now grown in comfort with an updated d & #233;cor and a rooftop dining space that’s especially apropos for the Southern Sunday brunch.

Richard Sadleir, owner/chef, and Chris Jures, chef de cuisine, cook with a flexibility that allows them to incorporate new food ideas into their California cuisine that carries a bit of a French accent. Sends my mind right to the roasted Anaheim chile stuffed with smoked salmon and Brie cheese and the sea scallops sided with corn and crayfish fricassee. Give me my table in that little woodsy enclave and watch me smile.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Lobster spring rolls

– Cioppino

– Pittsburgh-style filet with gorgonzola macaroni and cheese

– Torn pasta with shrimp

– Steamed salmon in champagne/ thyme sauce

– Creole mustard

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Partners’ Seasoning Salt: Mix 1 tablespoon powdered garlic, 1 tablespoon ground black pepper, 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoons paprika, 1/4 cup sugar, 1 cup salt. Use on fish, meat and poultry.

PASCAL

1000 N. Bristol, Newport Beach

(949) 752-0107

Lunch, dinner

This little French auberge, the realm of Pascal and Mimi Olhats, has been wowing Orange County for 14 years.

We just had another dinner here and once again were amazed at the creativity, the tastes and the textures that are so carefully assembled in each dish. Add some great value wines and the level of service that’s proffered and anyone can see why this restaurant is important.

Giving even more dimension to any meal here is the comfortable and sweet ambiance. There always have been dozens of bouquets of fresh roses all over the room and the country inn quietness it imparts overall is wonderful. Stroll across the patio and you arrive at Epicerie Pascal, the little shop of take-home food, inexpensive but lovely wines, cheeses, fresh pastries and even light lunches to eat at one of the outdoor tables.

Everything about this eponymous venture is just as it is in France today.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Foie gras salad sided with duck confit

– Belgian endive salad with pinenuts and Roquefort cheese

– French onion soup

– Rabbit with mustard sauce

– Chicken breast Proven & #231;al with roasted olive p & #226;t & #233;

– Roasted Rack of Lamb and Proven & #231;al eggplant

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

The food at home doesn’t matter as much as the whole family sitting together at the table at mealtime. The best hint is to come by Pascal Epicerie and we will prepare your favorite dishes or side dishes to take home.

PREGO

18420 Von Karman, Irvine

(949) 553-1333

Lunch, dinner

This was the impressive Italian restaurant of 1986. We all rushed over to see the replica of a rich man’s Italian manor and to taste the first round of Tuscan food in the county. Adhering to the “Don’t tamper with success” idiom, they’ve just kept doing what they’ve always done so well with the food.

I must have been the only person in the country who knew what bucatini was (spaghetti strands with a hole through them like a straw) because that disappeared from the menu. But, I shall survive, since the sauce that used to be on my favorite pasta is still there cuddling with a new pasta partner.

We first learned of shaved parmigiano cheese at Prego, and of rotisserie meats with Italian flavors running through the flesh, and of a thick pork chop with ribbons of balsamic vinegar reduction on it. Those things and other Tuscan dishes endure. The success continues.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Insalata tiepida: warm salad of shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels and clams in lemon vinaigrette

– Soncino con anitra: roasted duck breast with mache, watercress and goat cheese

– Tagliolini alla crema di scampi: pasta with shrimp and cream sauce

– Costolette di maiale: grilled pork chop deglazed with balsamic vinaigrette

– Bauletto di pollo: chicken breast stuffed with spinach, sun-dried tomato and Fontina cheese

– Costolette d’agnello: lamb chops in chef’s special sauce

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

If you can add mesquite to your home grill, anything will take on great taste with only the following addition: brush the vegetables, meat or fish with a little extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, chopped thyme and rosemary.

RIVIERA AT THE FIRESIDE

13950 Springdale, Westminster

(714) 897-0477

Lunch, dinner

This is the two-year-old home to Riviera since it moved from its longtime South Coast Plaza location.

All my worry about whether the move would be successful was for naught. The place is far more crowded with happy diners than they’d had in the last years of their Costa Mesa stay. It’s quite comforting to walk into this New York-style room where waiters are putting finishing touches on the food tableside, an almost forgotten art.

Both concept and menu have remained the same for 35 years,quality Continental food that is consistent in preparation, served with grace in an atmosphere meant to be both relaxing and semi-sophisticated. Many of the employees have been with the restaurant for 25 years or more, a cohesiveness to admire.

No wonder they know all of us when we stop by. They’ve been remembering their customers and their preferences in food and wine for all this time.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Spinach salad made with hot bacon dressing flamb & #233;

– French onion soup gratinee

– Pepper steak with mustard cream sauce

– Duckling & #341; l’orange

– Coq au vin

– Flamb & #233; desserts: crepes Suzette, bananas flamb & #233;, cherries jubilee

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Most everyone knows how to cook, but to get everything ready to serve at the same time is usually the problem. Write down the length of time it will take to cook each item, study the times the day before the meal and try to follow the schedule precisely on the day you are doing the cooking.

ROYAL KHYBER

1621 W. Sunflower (South Coast Plaza Village), Santa Ana

(714) 436-1010

Lunch, dinner

This is the upscale, fine dining mecca of modern Indian food.

In rather elegant surroundings, by way of fashionable seating around properly napped tables, exotic artifacts and interesting architecture, we have been endowed with a contemporary Indian cuisine heretofore unknown. Thanks to Arun Puri, owner and chef, the dishes sport all of the traditional spices and flavors of the original cuisine, but he’s taken a new and artistic look at what the food could be, stripped it of unwanted calories and given it a California presentation.

The foods are still cooked in the tandoor oven and stir-fried, and it’s so likable that I’m having a great time introducing new customers. Incidentally, Arun’s wife, Urmil, is the gracious lady overseeing the dining room.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Eggplant salad

– Smoked lamb cakes

– Spiced seafood

– Khyber’s nectar (succulent long-simmered lamb shank)

– Lobster masala

– Basil/coconut curried chicken

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Use lentils for variation in your home cooking. They have become very popular with chefs and provide a high level of protein. Excellent for vegetarian dishes, as well as to use with meat and poultry.

TUTTO MARE

545 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach

(949) 640-6333

Lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch

This is a good looking San Franciso-like restaurant where warm wood meets tiled floor, open kitchen meets perfectly dressed tables and customer attire runs from casual to dressy.

In other words, it’s hard not to feel at home here. For its 13 years of existence, the food has always been slanted towards Italian-influenced seafood.

However, there are many pasta and risotto dishes on the menu that incorporate meats and poultry and even vegetarian specialties can be had. The kitchen manages to combine creativity and authenticity with attention paid to today’s rising health consciousness. It has been a local favorite since day one. Working with quality ingredients, making pastas and pastries daily and sauces to order, this is what fresh food is all about.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Carpacci di pesce spada: thinly sliced swordfish in lemon juice, olive oil and garlic

– Tartara di tonno: chopped fresh tuna, green onions, capers, avocado and caviar

– Misto mare: whole fish baked in the wood-fired oven, served with assorted shellfish as well

– Riccioli d’oro: angel hair pasta, prawns, crab, lobster and spicy tomato sauce

– Bianchi e neri: black and white pasta ribbons, shrimp and scallops in white wine-pink peppercorn sauce

– Duetto di pesce: grilled swordfish, freshwater prawns and rosemary-roasted potatoes

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Do not salt food all at once. A little touch of salt should be added every time you add an ingredient.

VILLA NOVA

3131 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach

(949) 642-7880

Dinner

When you talk about legends, this one is that and more.

Founded in 1933, it was sold to Andy Crean in 1993. It’s always been an Italian restaurant with plenty of seafood on the menu but the villa-like exterior could fit into any mold. With a remodel and new art, it’s spiffy again and the waterfront location has always been a big plus.

It is also another restaurant with many longtime employees who relate personally to their local clientele. I’m told that they are fully aware of having a new generation of diners who “grew up” in the restaurant with their parents. It is a favorite place for romantic dinners and when boat parade week comes around each year, only the quickest callers will get a table to see the colorfully decorated vessels glide by as they eat.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– New Zealand greenlip mussels (local favorite)

– Osso buco (traditional favorite): classic oven-braised veal shank

– Piatto villa nova (chef’s favorite): medallions of thinly sliced veal topped with eggplant, tomato sauce and melted mozzarella cheese

– Bistecca de pepe verde (owner’s favorite): filet in green peppercorn sauce

– Calamari frito (favorite bar munchie): fried calamari

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Don’t overcook the pasta! It will continue to cook a bit after you add the sauce. Also, pair your pastas with the appropriate sauce: angel hair with chopped tomato/basil sauce, wider style pasta with Alfredo and cream sauces, ridged pasta (penne, rigatoni) to grasp marinara type sauces.

WALT’S WHARF

201 Main St., Seal Beach

(562) 598-4433

Lunch, dinner

Walt Babcock was a dentist who happened to own a fishing boat when he and his wife Mona decided to open this restaurant in 1970.

The boat’s daily catch was going to other seafood restaurants: why not use the fresh fish in their own place?

This is still one of the most popular restaurants in the Seal Beach area.

By 1978, they had purchased 110 acres of land on the western edge of the Santa Ynez Valley. The Babcocks happen to co-own with their son, Bryan, Babcock Vineyards on that land. It just happens to be one of America’s most renowned wine facilities. Bryan, as winemaker, has received rave reviews from the most reputable wine critics.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Oak-grilled artichoke

– Chef’s salad with oak-grilled salmon

– Caramelized salmon

– Kaso-marinated sea bass

– Salmon tacos

– Grilled swordfish tostada

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

Easy oak-grilled artichokes for summer: Cut artichokes into quarters and steam or boil until tender. Baste with garlic butter and grill until the artichokes are very hot and slightly browned.

ANAHEIM WHITE HOUSE

887 S. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim

(714) 772-1381

Lunch, dinner

This Northern Italian food is completely in step with sophisticated dining in Italy.

Bruno Serato, the charismatic owner, makes sure that his kitchen is always up to date on everything pertaining to modern Italian cuisine. Few places can match the presentations of food, let alone the tastes. Bruno has always given top priority to quality and outstanding service.

The building itself makes quite a statement. I know of no other restaurant with such a meadow for a front lawn, complete with a true garden atmosphere of tables and chairs for outdoor summer dining. The white Southernesque home, complete with second story verandahs, has been turned into enchanting and elegant dining rooms, all the better to savor the terrific food.

Menu choices recommended by the restaurant:

– Lobster ravioli: made daily with fresh lobster and basil, served with crispy leeks and ginger/citrus sauce

– Saut & #233;ed scallops in puff pastry and highlighted with fresh, light tomato sauce

– Steak tartare made with hand-chopped filet mignon

– Pacific ahi: tuna crusted with black sesame seeds and seared, served with crispy yams

– Pan-roasted lamb with cipollini and thyme

– Oven-roasted filet mignon dressed with porcini mushrooms, shallots and brandy reduction sauce

Tip for the home cook from the chef:

When you make pasta, open your refrigerator knowing that you will find something to put with it. If you have leftover meats or vegetables already cooked, toss them with the pasta. Otherwise, try something else you have in there as an addition to the pasta and you’ll have a wonderful meal.

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