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2010 OC 50 – APPAREL

Colin Baden
Chief executive
Oakley Inc.
Born in Concord, Mass., age 47
Lives in Irvine

Oakley’s new boss. Started out as consultant, founder’s architect.

Named chief executive in September with departure of former OC 50er Scott Olivet, who left to invest, help Oakley founder Jim Jannard with latest venture (see next entry).

Oakley sells sunglasses, goggles, frames, clothes. Bought by Italy’s Luxottica Group for $2.1 billion in 2007. Baden reports to Luxottica chief Andrea Guerra.

Former architect at Lewis Architecture of Seattle. Started advising Oakley on image in 1993. Came on board in 1996 after helping Jannard on design of Washington state home. Oakley president since 1999.

Had big hand in design, construction of Oakley’s distinctive Foothill Ranch headquarters.

Oversaw reorganization at Oakley in October. Changes had been on drawing board for about a year.

Oakley, with yearly sales of about $1 billion, saw double-digit 2009 growth. Bright spot for Luxottica. Oakley benefiting from added sales from Luxottica’s Sunglass Hut chain, more sales of prescription frames, custom sunglasses.

Charismatic, no-nonsense guy. Says he’s overgrown “kid in need of therapy.” Describes Oakley garb as “science wrapped in art.”

Still brainstorms with Jannard, who has official title of chief mad scientist at Oakley.

Born in Massachusetts, raised on Orcas Island in Washington. Father, Mowry, sculptor, dean of School of Fine Arts in Victoria, British Columbia. Calls dad sole source of his irreverent behavior, artistic abilities.

Undergrad degree from University of Washington, graduate degree from University of Arizona, both in architecture.

In free time, likes to race Olympic-class yachts, work with dad on public art projects, scuba.

Avid gun collector. Likes “unloading massive amount of lead on the countryside” with his two boys.

Wife, Laura.

Michael Volpe

James H. Jannard
Founder, chief executive
Red Digital Cinema Camera Co.
Born in Alhambra, age 60
Lives in Nevada, Spieden Island, Wash., OC

Oakley founder, product visionary now taking on Hollywood.

Photography buff, looking to change way movies, TV shows are made. Started Lake Forest’s Red Digital Cinema Camera in 2005 as hobby turned business.

Looking to sell directors, cinematographers on company’s digital cameras, which tout quality comparable to or better than film cameras with lower production costs.

Films shot on Red Digital cameras include Steven Soderbergh’s last five movies, “District 9,” “Book of Eli,” TV shows such as “Southland.”

Bought former Ren-Mar Studios in Hollywood in January, renamed as Red Studios Hollywood.

Planning big project on land he has in Las Vegas, where he has a home.

Has initial approval for 80-acre Red campus with plans to build camera factory, sound studio, homes for himself, actors, others from movie industry.

Tapped former CEO, current Oakley Chairman Scott Olivet as executive chairman of Red. Played key role in studio buy, Vegas push.

Jannard former 63% owner of Oakley. Opted to sell evolving company to longtime frenemy Luxottica, pocketed $1.3 billion.

Signed five-year non-compete deal. Still chief mad scientist, chief visionary at Oakley—his official titles. Plays role in product design.

Intensely private. Splits time among San Juan Islands, Wash.; Nevada; OC.

USC dropout. Started selling motorcycle handle grips out of car in 1975, moved on to goggles, then sunglasses.

Company president from 1975 to 1995, chief executive from 1999 to 2003. Company named after his favorite dog, Oakley, an English Setter.

Remarried. Four children. Loves drag racing, photography.

Michael Volpe

Robert B. McKnight Jr.
Chairman, chief executive, president
Quiksilver Inc.
Born in Pasadena, age 56
Lives in Laguna Beach (Emerald Bay)

Surfer executive upright again after going over the falls.

Heads largest maker of clothes inspired by surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding. Awaiting market turnaround after prolonged downturn, shift in tastes away from surf-wear.

Company came through near death experience in 2009. Heavy debt, slumping sales put future in doubt. Rumors of company sale or selloff of DC Shoes line swirled.

Spearheaded series of life-saving financial deals last year: $150 million, five-year loan from France’s Rhône Group; consolidated European debt into four-year, $250 million loan; reworked U.S. credit lines.

Came at a price: Rhône deal includes $25.6 million in warrants allowing it to buy 20% of Quiksilver. Loan at 15%, steeper than Quiksilver’s previous debt. McKnight now sits alongside two directors from Rhône on board.

Crippling debt came from 2005’s $560 million buy of broken French ski maker Rossignol, which proved unfixable. Rossignol sold in 2008 fire sale for $50 million. McKnight later called acquisition a “mistake.”

Overseen about 700 jobs cuts in past two years. Calls industry downturn “worse than anything we’ve seen.”

Staying focused on core business: clothes, shoes, other products inspired by surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding. Made some tweaks, but largely stayed clear of gothic, urban, fast fashion, other trends that have stolen business from surfwear in recent years.

Anticipates industry comeback: “Everyone loves the beach and it’s here forever.”

Once left for dead by Wall Street, stock up more than 200% in past 12 months as turnaround play. Recent market value of $650 million.

Started Quiksilver as trunks maker in 1976 with Jeff Hakman, Aussie surfer he met in Bali. Pair moved to OC that year.

Went public in 1986. Later bought out European seller of Quiksilver, introduced Roxy brand, largely invented surfwear for females. Bought out remaining global Quiksilver, Roxy trademarks from licensees in early 2000s.

Avid surfer. Favorite spot: Mentawai Islands, off Sumatra, Indonesia. Inducted into Surfers’ Hall of Fame in Huntington Beach in 2005.

Business bachelor’s from USC. Delta Tau Delta fraternity brother with former SEC Chairman Christopher Cox. Made surfing videos as hobby.

Wife, Annette (New Zealander he met, along with Hakman, on 1973 trip to Bali). Three children.

Trustee, Otis College of Art and Design.

Has land on Hanalei Bay in Kauai. Also likes snowboarding, tennis, golf, softball, volleyball, diving.

Michael Lyster

Glenn P. McMahon
Chief executive
St. John Knits International Inc.
Born in Philadelphia, age 51
Lives in Corona del Mar

Runs grande dame of local apparel industry.

St. John famous for elegant suits worn by politicians, celebrities, socialites. McMahon working to appeal to younger women without alienating longtime wearers.

Walking fine line after predecessor Richard Cohen’s disastrous bid for younger wearers, epi-tomized by hiring of Angelina Jolie as model.

Last year, came out with more casual line inspired by St. Tropez yacht life. Sold under St. John yellow label. In late 2008, launched separate SoCa line of younger, more casual resort clothes.

Scrapped second brand after timing proved ill-fated with Wall Street crash, larger economic meltdown.

Yearly sales of about $315 million, down from nearly $400 million before recession.

“We have some great days and some bad days, but our core customers have stayed,” he says.

Shed some Irvine office space. No longer faces immediate decision on 169,555-square-foot plant near John Wayne Airport.

In 2006, St. John sold building to developer Hines Interests, leased back. Plan to redevelop site as offices approved in 2008.

“Then the whole world changed, particularly for commercial real estate,” McMahon says.

Redevelopment now on hold with company staying put for near term.

Company’s heritage runs deep. Founders Robert, Marie Gray started St. John in 1962. Built niche around signature Santana fabric Marie Gray invented. Daughter Kelly Gray worked as model, later served as co-president.

Mother-daughter team back as consultants (Kelly has own gig at Newport Beach’s Royal Underground with Mötley Crüe’s Nikki Sixx). Grays sold majority of company to Germany’s Escada in 1990. Private equity firm Vestar Capital bought St. John in 1999.

McMahon joined in 2007. Earlier headed U.S. arm of Italy’s Dolce & Gabbana. Cut teeth working for Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani.

Stylish, debonair. One of eight children. Spent most of youth in Mendham, N.J., famous for beautiful horse country.

Father held posts at Litton Industries, Royal Crown Cola. Mother was avid sportswoman, managed household.

Graduated from American University in Washington, D.C.

Likes to swim, cycle, shop, read magazines, including Economist, Vanity Fair. Loves art, architecture, traveling. Favorite foods: bread, chocolate.

Michael Lyster

Paul R. Naude
President, Billabong USA
Executive director, Billabong International Ltd.
Born in Durban, South Africa, age 54
Lives in Laguna Beach

Pro surfer turned surfwear executive awaiting next swell.

Runs second-largest maker of clothes inspired by surfing, skateboarding after Quiksilver. Billabong USA, part of Australia’s Billabong International, has yearly sales of about $600 million, 44% of parent’s revenue.

Like rest of industry, riding out slump, waiting for popular tastes to shift back to surf-wear’s favor.

Sales in Americas region, led by the U.S., down 6% to $276 million for six months through December.

Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, amortization in Americas were $29 million, down 4%.

Results hurt by stronger Australian dollar, industry downturn.

Took over Billabong’s U.S. operations in 1998. Rebuilt company after Bob Hurley, founder of Costa Mesa-based Hurley International, left to start own business, taking staff with him.

Naude’s reputation in surfwear helped revive company, luring designers, other staff. Oversees about 600 local workers.

Former Gotcha exec, South African pro surfer. Been in surf business since 1973.

Made several acquisitions. In March, acquired rights to skateboard-inspired brand Plan B. In November, bought San Clemente’s Swell.com, online clothes seller. In 2008, bought Oregon accessories maker DaKine, San Diego skateboard maker Sector 9. Bought Hawaiian wetsuit maker Xcel International in 2007; Nixon watches in 2005; Element skateboard clothing company, sunglasses maker Von Zipper in 2001.

Stepped into retail in 2004. Bought Beach Access, chain of stores now called Beach Works that sells Billabong brands, other surf, skate apparel. Grabbed Honolua Surf Co. stores in Hawaii in 2004. Runs nearly 100 stores in U.S., Canada, South America.

Was sergeant in tank regiment in South Africa during years of mandatory military service. Went to college in South Africa. Started fixing surfboards in 1970s. South Africa surfing champion in 1976.

Shifted to business after years on pro surfing tour. Co-owner of surfboard maker with three surf stores in Durban, 1974 to 1981. Became chief executive of Gotcha South Africa. Moved to U.S. in 1992 to become executive VP of Gotcha.

Senior advisory board member, Surf Industry Manufacturers Association. Supports charities Surf Aid International, Surfrider Foundation.

Likes to surf, snowboard, photograph wildlife in South Africa, spend time with family. Married, son, daughter.

Michael Lyster

Gary H. Schoenfeld
Chief executive, president
Pacific Sunwear of California Inc.
Born in Seattle, age 47
Lives in Los Angeles

In first full year on job at largest retailer of clothes inspired by surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding. Hopes of many in struggling action sports clothing industry pinned on him.

Runs more than 900 mall stores aimed at teens, other young buyers, $1 billion in yearly sales. Com-pany’s struggled for better part of two years amid downturn, shift in tastes away from surfwear toward urban styles, cheap, trendy clothes known as fast fashion. Turnaround slow in coming.

Looking to bring back authenticity to PacSun stores by playing up Volcom, Fox, Billabong, Hurley, other brands. Less emphasis on chain’s own brands of clothes.

Business runs in family—third in line of clothing guys. Grandfather started necktie business where dad, Walter Schoenfeld, worked before starting Britannia Sportswear. Seattle-area maker of Britannia jeans reached $300 million in yearly sales by the time Levi bought in early 1980s.

Decade later, coaxed dad out of retirement to run Vans, maker of skateboarding shoes, clothes, then based in Orange. At time, Schoen-feld was with private equity investor McCown De Leeuw, which bought Vans in 1988.

Senior Schoenfeld led turnaround at Vans before handing reins to his son in 1996, when he started on his own revival, leading to 2004 Vans sale to VF.

From 2006 to 2008, served as vice chairman, president, co-chief executive of Los Angeles-based Global Brands Group, product licensing, marketing company best known for clothes, other products made under license from soccer’s FIFA.

Says Pacific Sunwear “anxious for leadership” when arrived in June. Big on communication. Outlined vision on day one, followed up at 30, 100 days.

UCLA undergrad degree. Stanford business degree.

Occasionally surfs. Likes snow, water skiing. Married, three children.

Michael Lyster

Pierre André Senizergues
Founder, chief executive
Sole Technology Inc.

Born in Antony, France, age 46
Lives in Newport Beach (Balboa Peninsula)

One of few independents left in shoe business. This year, celebrating 15th anniversary of Sole Technology, maker of skateboarding-inspired etnies, éS, Emerica, other brands of shoes, clothes.

Plays up independent streak with support of environmental causes, special projects. Among them: Etnies-designed room at La Casa del Camino hotel in Laguna Beach. Last year, Senizergues launched C Pas, solo line of tailored clothes, sportswear made from organic or recycled textiles.

Infuses company with passion for environment. Installed solar panels, native plants, other eco touches at headquarters. Has goal to become carbon neutral by 2020; emissions down 14% in 2009 thanks to use of hydropower. Company’s 350,000-square-foot Fontana warehouse runs on wind, solar power.

Backed 2008 environmental documentary “The 11th Hour” with Leonardo DiCaprio.

Company has yearly sales of about $200 million. Like others, dealing with lingering retail downturn.

Employs more than 350 with offices in Lake Forest, New York, Switzerland, Germany, Netherlands, China, Britain, Spain.

Grew up in Paris suburb L’Haÿ-les-Roses. Was championship freestyle skateboarder in 1980s.

Earned degree in industrial software from University of Paris, 1984. Worked as IBM engineer in France. Dreamed of skateboarding in California. Saved money, came to Los Angeles. Discovered in Venice by scouts from Sims Skateboards, axle maker Tracker.

Etnies brand stems from Rautureau Apple by French skateboarder Alain “Platoon” Montagnet. Senizergues met Rautureau Apple founders in 1988 at skate contest Trophée de Paris, started skating for them that same year. Worked out deal with Rautureau Apple to sell etnies in U.S. in 1990.

Bought rights to etnies brand from Rautureau Apple in 1996, competing with big shoemakers.

Opened 38,000-square-foot etnies skate park in 2003 with city of Lake Forest, undergoing expansion. Admission free, largely because of Sole’s support.

In November, ranked No. 95 on trade publication Footwear News’ Power 100 listing of industry executives, topped by Nike’s Phil Knight.

Enjoys skateboarding, surfing, snowboarding, designing, playing electric guitars.

Advocate of raw, organic food. One child, another due in July with longtime girlfriend.

Michael Lyster

Richard R. Woolcott
Founder, chairman, chief executive
Volcom Inc.

Born in New Jersey, age 44
Lives in Corona del Mar

Inspired scores of action sports clothing hopefuls as last upstart to make it to big leagues.

Started Volcom, maker of clothes inspired by surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding, art, music, film in 1991.

Took company public in 2005 in offering that raised $89 million for company, shareholders.

One of few publicly traded surf-inspired clothing makers along with OC 50ers Bob McKnight’s Quiksilver, Paul Naude’s Billabong, whose Australian parent is public.

Company spawned phrase “the next Volcom,” used by startups, others looking to emulate company’s success.

Business savvy surfer, goes by “Wooly.” Once surfed professionally, sponsored by Quiksilver.

Started company with snowboarding buddy Tucker “T-Dawg” Hall using seed money from dad, René Woolcott, former Volcom chairman, current director.

Younger Woolcott, Hall knew little about making clothes early on. Learned to run company by trial, error.

First headquarters was in Woolcott’s Newport Beach bedroom. Sales were run out of Tucker’s bedroom in Huntington Beach. First-year sales of $2,600.

Early on, got call from dad, who ran investment firm Clarendon House Advisors. Senior Woolcott warned Volcom would be out of business in months if company didn’t get act together.

Volcom now has yearly sales of about $275 million. Weathering apparel downturn better than others, thanks to brand’s cachet.

Starting in 2005, Woolcott, team oversaw European expansion in which company built regional headquarters, warehouse in France as company took over sales there from licensees.

In 2008, bought San Clemente sunglasses maker Electric for $25 million plus milestone payments.

From 1989 to 1991, worked in the marketing, promotions at Quiksilver. Inducted into National Scholastic Surfing Association Hall of Fame, 2004. Named the Surf Industry Manufacturers Association Individual Achiever of the Year, 2003.

Business bachelor’s, Pepperdine University.

Like surfing, snowboarding.

Michael Lyster

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