53.2 F
Laguna Hills
Thursday, Mar 28, 2024
-Advertisement-

A WORLD OF DINING

A WORLD OF DINING; OC’s Restaurant Scene Offers Cuisines From Every Almost Corner of the Globe

Executive Dining by Fifi Chao

This time, I chose to write about some international restaurants located in the county so that you could have a cultural dine-around without a plane ticket. I also included a bit of Americana for you. There are wonderful families and hands-on owners associated with these restaurants. They are places where you feel at home and where intimidation never got past the front door. Yet, in listing all these, I still did not have time to visit Greek restaurants to choose one, or Lebanese, Korean, Peruvian or Filipino. There are probably others I am neglecting. However, we can only fit so many restaurant reviews into these pages, anyway, so those will be in another supplement somewhere down the line. I hope that you enjoy trying some new foods or some old familiar dishes in these hometown gems and in the new restaurants that I have included.

On the rest of the dining front, here’s just a bit of news. Morton’s of Chicago has a wonderful new building in South Coast Plaza Village. The old Planet Hollywood was torn down and now the restaurant sits up front where it deserves to be. The noise level is very quiet compared to the old Morton’s, where a lot of conversational sound bounced around. Stop in and have a steak or some fresh fish at this very attractive new version of Morton’s. Picayo, the cute French restaurant that made do with only 24 seats in Laguna for the past five years, has moved to the new center at Boat Canyon and Coast Highway in Laguna. It maintains the ocean blues and sunny yellows of the Mediterranean in the d & #233;cor. Owner/chef Laurent Brazier continues to cook great food that is heavily tilted to the French persuasion. The Ritz in Newport Beach has been sold to an investor from Las Vegas after a 20-year run in Fashion Island. In just a short while, the Goodells, who own Aubergine and Troquet, will run the restaurant.

Lately, I have been making the rounds of the old classic restaurants in the county. There are so many that have skipped my attention for years on end, and they were there when I began writing. It’s interesting now to find out how they have fared with all the new restaurants that have come along and swiped our attention. I think I am working on a different kind of column on that one. While I do more homework, why don’t you take it easy and dine out more often?


ASIA NOODLE CAF & #201;


Casual Asian

4724 Barranca Parkway, Irvine

(949) 654-1801

4187 Campus Drive, Irvine

(949) 854-8826

Lunch and dinner

When Patrick Cheung opened the first restaurant across from UCI a few years ago, he could hardly have envisioned the success of his concept and the pleasure he would get from being able to serve top quality food (with no MSG or other additives) at virtual rock-bottom prices. He came up with an idea for a casual but sleekly decorated restaurant where the mainstay dishes were made up of distinguished foods from various Asian countries served over soft noodles, rice or pan-fried noodles. He made sure the recipes were authentic, the portions were plentiful and the ambiance was totally inviting. He now has two restaurants in OC and one in L.A. You can very often find me and a wellspring of our friends taking advantage of these flavorful places.

Have a bowl of edamame (steamed soybeans in pods) or the Chinese crunchy cabbage and carrots called pao choi for guaranteed likable appetizers. The latter is such a perfect balance of sweet and sour that it always calls for an additional order to munch on throughout the meal. There are several salads, of which I recommend the sesame chicken over lettuce that has a slight zing to it and the peanut noodle salad composed of linguine, peanut sauce, sliced cucumbers and peanuts (the addition of chicken is optional).

Some of the toppings for rice or noodles in broth include crisply fried pork strips, classic sweet and sour chicken, curry (chicken, beef, fish or shrimp), teriyaki beef or chicken, and several tofu and vegetable combinations. There’s a selection of nine pan-fried noodle dishes. Chow fun (ribbons of rice noodle with beef or chicken, bean sprouts and onion) is one of my favorites, as is a Thai version with shrimp and peanuts. Do not miss the rice bowl specialties, especially the Cantonese one with fresh tomato and beef, and the spicy orange chicken with cucumber. What a treat.


BANGKOK FOUR


Thai

3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa

(714) 540-7661

Thailand is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever seen. It’s peaceful, serene, laden with exotic flowers growing wild in the tropical climate and with food that is sublime and most pleasing to American palates. This restaurant, located on the third level of the New South Coast Plaza (formerly Crystal Court), does a stellar job of bringing all those elements to us. Its graceful fa & #231;ade and interior were created by the movie set designer Kerry Joyce. There’s a gentle patio-style place blocked off from the mall’s promenade by huge terra cotta planters. Inside double glass doors is a room swathed in pastels with a level of sophistication not often found amid our boutique shops. Tables are covered in pressed linen, set with sparkling glassware and colorful bouquets of flowers. You feel the aura of Thailand.

The food has always been authentic, culled from the various regions of the country. I often recommend people dine here pre-theater since the presentations of the food alone are so artistic, a perfect prelude to a cultural stage or musical performance. Spicy dishes from southern Thailand join milder ones from the north on this menu. Entr & #233;e highlights include the deep fried whole fish (individual portion) covered with a spicy chile-lemongrass sauce, crispy duck (first marinated in a brace of lovely spices) that is served with the best sweet duck sauce in OC, huge prawns in a light curry sauce, and pad thai noodles. These are transparent noodles melanged with chicken and shrimp, bean sprouts and peanuts and it’s possibly the favorite dish of most Americans. Of course, satay dishes and even the zestful salads of southern Thailand are presented. Top off your dinner with refreshing ginger or green tea ice cream. The latter’s so good I sometimes take some home with me.


BASILIC


Swiss/French

217 Marine Ave., Balboa Island

(949) 673-0570

Dinner only

Chef-owner Bernard Althaus has created a true gem in this little place. It’s been there for decades under various names, but when Bernard took over, something special happened. It’s still the intimate tiny enclave but the food now incites great pleasure. Banquettes upholstered in genteel tapestry line the walls of the step-down dining room located right on the main street of the island. In the dim, romantic light, a maximum of 24 diners can feast cozily on this cross-cultural Swiss and French fare.

The menu has only nine appetizers and 10 main courses, plus a five-course prix fixe menu at $47.50, but there are a few daily specials as well. Perhaps the greatest piece de resistance is the classic Swiss raclette. For this, a wheel of cow’s milk cheese is placed on a special holder fronted by a heating element. As the cheese melts, it is scooped up to be eaten with bites of sausages, cold meats, potatoes and tiny French pickles. Quite luscious. And, though it is listed as an appetizer, have a double order. I would also recommend beginning a meal with the garlic and shrimp risotto strewn with a fresh tomato-basil sauce. There’s a nice saffron and seafood soup and the warm duck foie gras salad with slices of apple is more than tempting.

The menu features both fish and meat entr & #233;es, with a fine red wine coq au vin tucked in (braised Burgundian style chicken over noodles). At the outset of the meal, Atlantic salmon comes with softly stewed leeks and Cabernet sauce. There’s a bouillabaisse. A great favorite is the steamed sea bass on a bed of fennel with just a little light tarragon sauce dappled on it. Veal tenderloin is sliced and enhanced with a brandy-mushroom sauce. Steak comes with peppercorn sauce. Rack of lamb sings beneath a rosemary-mustard crust. This is a very special place.


CHINA GARDEN


Chinese

14825 Jeffrey Road (at the I-5 freeway), Irvine

(949) 653-9988

Lunch, dinner and late-night dining

The current darling of Chinese dining in OC. Even chefs from other Chinese restaurants are spending plenty of time here. It was going gangbusters for about two years, then there was a kitchen fire and it took 18 months for it to reopen. Thankfully, that happened a few months ago and it was almost comical to watch those of us who had become habitu & #233;s flock right back.

This place has been given a rather sophisticated d & #233;cor by Chinese standards. There are elegantly swagged drapes, nice carpeting, soft colors, plenty of black lacquer and a tropical fish tank to greet your entry. But, it’s what’s on the plate that counts. I can first say that the portions are platter-sized. Next, the quality is admirable. The style of cooking is Hong Kong, which means the best of Cantonese and Shanghai cuisines blended with Hong Kong seafood and haute cooking techniques to ensure soaring tastes and the best balance of textures.

Prices of the food are cut approximately in half at lunch and for late-night dining from 10 p.m. to midnight, making it a bargain favorite as well. Since the menu is 186 items long, we’re going for a mention of a handful here. You’re on a discovery mission of your own for the rest. Saut & #233;ed prawns are the best having been marinated in wine beforehand. Baked scallops with garlic and pepper are enticing. Whole steamed crab (from the many fresh fish tanks along one wall) is good with its spicy salt jolt. Sizzling filet mignon outshines American grilling. Duck is steamed and deep-fried for crispy and moist yin-yang. Oh, and don’t forget to have the shredded pork and mushroom soup as an appetizer. Add to all this very professional service and plenty of friendly smiles from top management and it comes out a winner all the way around.


DARYA


Persian

1611 N. Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana (in South Coast Plaza Village)

(714) 557-6600

Lunch and dinner

One tends to think of ethnic restaurants as small, friendly, family-run places. That is not, however, exactly the case here. Darya is almost a dining palace. Who would expect to find a vast room bathed in tones of beige and white with soaring ceilings, a quintet of gorgeous crystal chandeliers and a dozen faux marble columns seemingly holding up this universe? There’s an upstairs space with decorative balcony railings and lovely leaded glass windows overlooking the outside world. The tables are dressed in beige linen at all times and are surrounded by dark wood chairs in a shell motif that are upholstered for ultimate comfort. Lovely Persian carpeting flows throughout. It’s romantic and special and I adore introducing Americans to this food and finding that they are surprised at how much they like it.

The dolmeh are a good beginning since these grapes leaves are not only stuffed fat with mostly ground beef and a little rice and spices, but they have great depth of flavor. There is a very nice appetizer plate of imported feta cheese, walnuts and fresh herbs. Perfect with some of the pristine rectangles of freshly baked flat bread. Several Persian dips are also available for slathering on that good bread.

Persian food is always served with very generous portions of basmati rice, mostly nested on top of it. There are tender meat kabobs, seafoods that are charbroiled and pan-seared (trout and Lake Superior whitefish being two good choices), marinated steaks and good casseroles. Of the latter, chicken in pomegranate and walnut sauce (fesenjon) is on my best ever list, and I recommend the albalo polo, which is chicken cooked with black cherries, and adas polo, an exotic dish of chicken cooked with raisins, lentils, dates and saffron. The pastries are fancifully presented and almost sinful and the custard called faloodeh is another version of flan. They get extra points for the professional service and very affordable prices.


FLORENCE ITALIAN CUISINE


Italian

14210-H Culver Drive, (in Heritage Plaza), Irvine

(949) 857-8265

Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch

This is one attractive restaurant. Husband-and-wife owners Mike and Fera Hashemi have poured substantial cash into this building in this unlikely location. There’s romantic recessed lighting peeking from soffits in the curved ceiling insets, while massive columns and great arches make strong statements. Windows are framed in mahogany, carpeting is thick and lush, white-napped tables are surrounded with very formal chairs upholstered in brocade. A long, curvy bar fronts the open kitchen, where every chef is attired in pristine whites and proper chefs’ toques. To think, this is in a supermarket shopping center.

The menu is filled with Tuscan and Northern Italian specialties. Their signature appetizer is impressive: a Portobello mushroom cap, roasted pepper slices and grilled eggplant stacked with melting mascarpone cheese. Another nice one is gamberoni con prosciutto (grilled shrimp on prosciutto slices with fresh cantaloupe, roasted peppers and arugula filling out the format). As for entr & #233;es, the pork chop has extra flavor since it sits on a ragout of sausage, tomatoes, mushrooms and white beans, while the veal shank is happily combined with porcini mushrooms. Veal marsala, seared Norwegian salmon and the New York steak with mushrooms and bell peppers are also good choices. Pastas run to sophisticated choices like lobster ravioli and back again to country comfort as in rigatoni with sausage and marinara sauce and bowtie pasta with garlicky chicken.

There’s a full-fledged Sunday brunch at only $19.95. Included are least eight entr & #233;es: cioppino, salmon, lasagna, vegetable lasagna, pollo piccata and pastas among them, as well as some specials. Breakfast items such as waffles, French toast and sausage and an appetizer and dessert assortment is also included along with beverage.


JAVIER’S


Mexican

480 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach

(949) 494-1239

Lunch and dinner

Javier Sosa worked for a long time at Tortilla Flats, but he had a higher vision for Mexican food. Why not better presentations and more interesting ways of putting together the authenticities of the cuisine? He was lucky enough to be at the right place at the right time when another restaurant in the middle of downtown Laguna Beach was going out of business. He turned the space into a wonderfully friendly place that always makes the wait for a table worthwhile.

The ceiling skylights were inherited, but he paved the floors in Mexican tiles, put in both wood and glass-topped tables, tucked some broad-leafed plants into big containers in each of the three dining rooms, painted the walls in peaceful colors and added a flair of colorful artwork here and there. Reminds me of some of the better restaurants in Mexico I’ve visited. He also remembered the importance of a bar and on the left side of the entry. There are always those lying in wait for a table,like me,who are having a margarita to start things off.

When we get to the table, there’s a menu of common Mexican items, but there’s likely to be a nice surprise on every plate. And, there are the signature dishes you will not find elsewhere. For instance: you might have chicken enchiladas, but they come with a smoky, deeply flavorful mole sauce (made from mild red chiles, pumpkin seeds and a bit of chocolate). The chile verde is wonderful with its tender pork long simmered in tomatillo sauce spiked with onions and chiles. Dungeness crab enchiladas are awesome. Grilled fish is decidedly different with its mattress of pasilla chiles, onions and tomatoes and white prawns are saut & #233;ed in that same chile mix. Filet mignon in chipotle cream sauce over linguini is not your run-of-the-mill meat dish. Even the lowly taco reaches new heights here. One of my very favorite restaurants.


LE JARDIN


French/Vietnamese

17431 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley

(714) 593-6541

Lunch and dinner

This is an absolutely charming place, one of the 10 best restaurants in the county right now. Thinking of the French influence on Vietnam, this restaurant, owned and designed by architect Dong Nguyen, encompasses all the glory of a sophisticated caf & #233; one would find in old Saigon. Dong is also a fine chef and created his own menu to complete the concept. Finding something this savory at the end of a tiny strip mall just off the San Diego freeway is all the more surprising.

The adventure begins when entering through a small, serene garden. Inside, bamboo mingles with trendy lighting, a serene color palette and open kitchen along one side of the room. Starched linens dress the tables, which are surrounded with modern woven bistro-style chairs. Huge bouquets of fresh flowers play a roll as they sit regally on high perches. There’s an inexplicable something that makes you want to lean across the table and talk quietly with others: a sense of romance perhaps, a wonderfully quiet atmosphere in which to talk business, a place where relaxation just comes naturally. Whatever it is, it is compelling.

And then, there’s the interesting food. I often order the superb escargot in a stream of chablis-parsley butter. It is not easy for me to pass up the grilled quail with five-spice seasoning. I cannot count the number of times I have recommended the shrimp steamed in a fresh coconut. And those are only appetizers! Main courses keep up the intellectual quotient. Sea bass with foie gras is wrapped in crispy rice paper with pinot noir sauce. Veal shank cassoulet is wonderfully tweaked with its accompaniment of lima beans and tomato bits. Kobe beef is served with caramelized green apple and wine reduction sauce. Broiled whole fish sings with a tamarind-lemongrass sauce. Yellow noodles are mixed with roasted pork, shrimp and crabmeat. It’s a dream come true.


MARRAKESH


Moroccan

1976 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa

(959) 645-8384

Dinner

Morocco brings thoughts of souks and spices and mosaic tiled facades, plus great arches beneath which vendors sell colorful clothing and food and household goods. Memories also bring back the rather secretive pathways that wend endlessly between the mysterious buildings, often ending in another local bazaar where yet more families sell their products under vast canvas ceilings propped on poles. And, we remember the zigzag streets that take us from adventure to adventure in exotic places such as Casablanca and homes with tented ceilings and pillows piled high for seating.

Ali Rabini has been bringing us some of those rainbow-colored realities for over two decades. It’s in the d & #233;cor and food at his restaurant. The beautiful fabrics alone would make any restaurant lovely. In all the nuances of Morocco that are packed in, we can escape into a scene almost as full as our memories. And, there are belly dancers to entertain. In a nod to modern-day comfort, pillows have given way to cushy chairs for seating so nobody needs to fear having to navigate tiring legs beneath low tables.

I have always loved Moroccan food. It is not overly exotic, there are no spices that the American palate finds objectionable. In fact, I used to teach my cooking students to make tagines and bastilla, the national dishes of the country. Here, meals are served complete and built around bastilla, which is a luscious layered dish of chicken and almonds with a hint of cinnamon, the whole wrapped in myriad layers of filo dough. There are five choices of meals: along with the aforementioned, you select sides of tagine (stew) of lamb, shrimp or lamb brochettes, duck, rabbit, chicken, quail, fish or chicken. There’s also a multi-course vegetarian meal. With all prices under $25 complete, this is a beautiful bargain adventure.


NIEUPORT 17

Classic American

13015 Newport Ave., Tustin

(714) 731-5130

Lunch and dinner

Just in case you are wondering where’s the good old American food in all this, here’s both an attractive and tasty place in one package that is worthy of our attention at any time. For years, it was located on 17th Street in Santa Ana, thus the name. Former naval airman Bill Bettis moved to these more upscale quarters in 1990. The old place had scaled down airplanes and pilot memorabilia galore as the main design element. The planes and their props are now gone, but photos of pilots, planes and aviators still line the walls. But that’s quite an aside to the real stylishness of these rooms.

Highly polished dark wood is generously used. A massive fireplace of stacked slate dominates one room. Another features large black leather booths decorated with bottles of fine wine along their back ledges. Tapestry style upholstery embellishes the rather lavish wood chairs around the tables and the wing chairs in the lounge. Of course, the luster of white tablecloths and wineglasses adds more sophistication. In looks, this is a cross between the true glamour of ’60s dining and a comfortable lodge.

Quality has always been paramount in the food. Classics are the norm. Steak tartare joins shrimp escradille (r & #233;moulade sauce, horseradish, mustard and capers are the backbone) and onion soup as my suggested appetizers. Many kinds of fresh fish are gently handled. How great to find true tournedos of beef, a Swiss-style veal with mushrooms and cream sauce, Austrian roast braten beef served over noodles. They remember that some people cannot live without pasta and give several choices. At lunch, there are many interesting salads and sandwiches added. This is nostalgia at its best and I never tire of it.


THE OLDE SHIP


English

709 Harbor Blvd., Fullerton

(714) 871-7447

Look no further for good, inexpensive food. Doug Collier has been forging a sense of camaraderie with his customers for eight years. He could charm the socks off you with his lilting English accent, and he’s certainly managed an atmosphere and comforting food that’s downright inviting at these two places.

Since Britain has always been known for its strong naval background, he came up with the name and cordial look of a native pub swathed in wood with brass accents. Both places have convivial bars and lots of booths. Wood takes center stage on floors and walls. Model sailing ships add authenticity. Formica-topped tables are de rigueur. One could hardly be intimidated under these circumstances.

Mostly we skip appetizers and get right to the heart of pub dining, which is an entr & #233;e with a nice pint of ale. We come for the roast beef or prime rib with Yorkshire pudding. The fish and chips are comprised of whole fresh cod filets sided with fries. I am most fond of their classic steak and kidney pie, which is spruced up with a Burgundy wine sauce and a flaky pastry topping. Paul Jones’ Scottish Bridie is a nice piece of beef with onions, spices and whisky sauce wrapped in a pastry envelope. A homey dish of curried chicken or shrimp is piled on rice with chutney on the side in a nod to their Indian connections. Corned beef is simmered for hours in beer and broth, then married to the cabbage and vegetables just in time. Of course, there are times when bangers and mash are just perfect too. I don’t worry about cholesterol when I cut into the fat sausages, relish the fried onions and gobble up my mashed potatoes and gravy. I should mention that breakfast items and several sandwiches are available as well. Hint, hint: have sticky toffee pudding for dessert!


ROSINE’S


Mediterranean

721 S. Weir Canyon Road, Anaheim Hills

(714) 283-5141

There’s a very nice family story here. Mom Rosine Najarian is the chef, son Hagop and daughter Isabelle run the restaurant with her. There are even peripheral family members involved. What emerges is fine Mediterranean food at bargain prices that is lovingly served. Critics have given rave reviews since it opened in 1995 and many customers contact me to make sure I know about it. Locals have come to consider it “their” place, but others find it worth a drive to have some of the signature dishes. I also give it high marks for good wine choices to match with the food.

The family took a storefront location and turned it into a friendly, casual place where everyone feels welcome. Laminate tables and high backed chairs meet terra cotta floors and a hint that they are serious about wine comes from the wine storage cabinets that greet you as the focal point of the entry and as room dividers. Totally unpretentious and yet dedicated.

The food item that gets the most attention is the rotisserie chicken. But before we go there, some note must be made of the appetizers, many of which come as sides with entr & #233;es (you get a choice of two). There’s a lot of palate pleasing in the pureed, grilled eggplant with sesame, lemon and garlic flavoring. Ditto for the crispy filo bites filled with herbed cheese, stuffed grape leaves, walnut “caviar,” and eggplant and roasted pepper Napoleon. There are lots of sandwiches on the menu, with fillings tucked into pita pocket bread. Grilled seafood and meat kabobs are prominent. And then, we come to the famous chicken, one of the best versions anywhere: very juicy beneath a browned skin and so fragrant in the mouth when dipped into the special sweet garlic sauce. It’s also their runaway best take-out item. Beef sirloin and vegetarian falafel are also specialties. Rock bottom prices make this a real find.


Z’TEJAS


Southwestern American

3333 Bristol, Costa Mesa (in South Coast Plaza)

(714) 979-7469

Lunch and dinner

Here’s a nod to the ever evolving American cuisine of the southwest United States. It’s a chain operation, but one that seems to remember what individualized dining is all about. The business partners behind it are Paul Fleming and Michael Archer. Fleming is the “P. F.” in P. F. Chang’s China Bistro and the “Fleming” in Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, while Archer is formerly president of Morton’s of Chicago.

Last fall, they took the space of a former restaurant and transformed it completely into a lovely and colorful place. This atmosphere sticks with a friendly formula of exhibition kitchen, mahogany bar, wrought-iron detailing, handcrafted tile work, copper accents, a palette of rich colors and amber glass architectural lighting. I feel so comfortable here that I am still trying to make up my mind whether I prefer being seated in the dining room or the lounge area.

The menu is greatly influenced by the foods indigenous to the coastal border of south Texas, where fresh seafood, chiles, tomatoes, peppers, corn, cilantro and herbs are plentiful. This food jumps with flavor, and there’s a great range of spiciness from very mild to feisty. Voodoo tuna with peppercorn sauce is superb. I highly recommend the pork tenderloin stuffed with cheese, chiles and chorizo sausage. Catfish beignets (chunks of fish crusted in cornmeal) may be an appetizer, but I could make a meal of them. The wild mushroom enchilada is very good. Honey and basil glaze a hefty filet of salmon. I like their take on sea bass: enclosed in a parchment paper envelope with strips of poblano chile and tomatillo. Chicken is quite harmonious with its Cajun cream sauce. In barely half a year, they have put a new dining stamp the OC restaurant scene.

Want more from the best local business newspaper in the country?

Sign-up for our FREE Daily eNews update to get the latest Orange County news delivered right to your inbox!

-Advertisement-

Featured Articles

-Advertisement-
-Advertisement-
-Advertisement-
-Advertisement-

Related Articles

-Advertisement-
-Advertisement-